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Planning ahead as we always do, our first task was to buy a museums pass. Toronto has something similar, but not on the scale it should. By comparison, see below:
Without overstating the obvious, the Montreal pass is a much better value over both Toronto deals combined, and more importantly, includes transit. This sort of progressive marketing and cooperation among the city's institutions is nearly unheard of in Toronto, where territorial squabbling seems common. However, we had problems getting the pass as not all attractions sold it, despite the brochure's claim of availability. In fact, a way to improve sales could be to sell museum passes at all subway stations or post offices. Given my fixation for museums, I hoped to visit many, while leaving enough time to see other parts of Montreal.
High on Sandra's list of things to do were the Botanical Garden, McGill University, a Jewish deli and neighbourhood, and the Forum (old and new arenas). I looked forward to the Planetarium (Toronto has been without one since 1995), Holocaust Centre, brew-pubs, and the Old City. We liked their subway system, finding it easy to navigate and find our destinations, but were discouraged by the lack of escalators and wheelchair accessibility (although we're able-bodied, the pedestrian tunnels were long and deeper underground than in Toronto). We saw the Museum of Archeology and History, strolled by part of the old quarter and waterfront areas, then had dinner at L'Amère à Boire, a brewery on St-Denis. This night was also marked by "Les FrancoFolies de Montreal," a free outdoor music festival (it was difficult to understand the lyrics, but still fun).
Day two was spent seeing the Casino, Biosphere, Stewart Museum at Fort Sainte-Helene, McCord Museum of Canadian History, the university (including a film shoot), and finished the evening on Saint Joseph street, a pedestrian mall full of restaurants. I've never been inside a casino at ten in the morning, so it was surprising to see gamblers that early, though we suspected they hadn't left since yesterday. The sphere was impressive, but disappointing as a museum; some exhibits are just meant for kids. The Stewart and McCord collections were vast and held our attention for hours.
Our last full day in Montreal began at the Olympic complex which includes the ugliest stadium in baseball, movie theatres and three popular attractions. The gardens, Sandra's favourite attraction, were really beautiful, especially the Chinese section. We breezed by the Insectarium, happy for a shuttle bus to the Biodome after being in the hot sun. The Polar World Ecosystem's frolicking penguins were hilarious to watch. Heading back downtown to the Planetarium, we stopped for lunch at an office building with an indoor skating rink. Unfortunately, I found the astronomy show tiring, perhaps resulting from museum fatigue.
The evening was focused on things Jewish, namely the Holocaust Centre, Schwartz's Deli and St-Viateur Bagel. Among three Holocaust museums I've now visited, this was the smallest, after Jerusalem and New York. However, substance is more important, and not even two hours was enough to absorb the material. No matter how heart-wrenching, it's necessary for everyone, Jew or not, to see a memorial dedicated to fighting intolerance.
As we left for Ottawa, we passed through Westmount and Congregation Shaar Hashomayim. They are Montreal's second-oldest synagogue and located next to a grand City Hall office. Sandra was reluctant, but I insisted we ask for a tour, which they were happy to give; the Rabbi even invited us to Sabbath prayers. Pictures of the entire trip to follow.
*Postscript: Sandra and I coined the term, "museum feet" to describe the result of viewing fifteen museums over six days. Who knew sight seeing could be so agonizing?
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